From drawing to finished rug.
Follow a circular logo from tracing onto the cloth through tufting, carving and the finished reveal.
Video: @badink_design
YOUR ULTIMATE STARTER KIT / COMPANION GUIDE
Follow this guide alongside your EFFY Ultimate Rug Tufting Starter Kit. Learn to use its purple AK-V, Rosewood carver and Easy Clip guide, then finish your rug with the included backing and binding.
New to tufting? A tufting gun pushes yarn through stretched cloth to build a design. Start with a small rug and work through one stage at a time.
Other EFFY starter kits have different contents. The same core techniques apply, but this guide focuses on the Ultimate Kit and does not cover the Premium Kit’s additional tools.
BEGINNERS IN EFFY WORKSHOPS
See the whole process before you begin: a drawing becomes a tufted design, then a finished rug. Watch one example or scroll straight to frame setup below.
Some workshop videos predate the AK-V and show earlier tools such as the AK-I. The Ultimate Kit now includes the purple AK-V, Rosewood carver and Easy Clip guide.
Follow a circular logo from tracing onto the cloth through tufting, carving and the finished reveal.
Video: @badink_design
See a beginner build up blue stripes, shape the surface and finish the edges before revealing the rug.
A quick look at tufting a yellow character, followed by the proud moment of holding up the finished rug.
01 / BUILD YOUR SETUP
Start with the demonstration for your chosen frame. Assemble the frame and yarn guide, then clamp it securely to a sturdy work surface before stretching your cloth.
See how the four sides fit together and where the yarn guide goes.
Check the carpet tack before stretching your cloth: the points must lean outwards, away from the centre of the frame, on all four sides. This lets the points grip the cloth as you pull it tight. Most EFFY wooden frames have two rows of tack.
This short video shows an older wooden frame. Its carpet tack is different and it uses Phillips-head screws. Your current 90 cm frame uses Allen-key screws, so you do not need a power tool. The way the sides and yarn guide fit together is the same.
12 seconds · Older wooden frame · Assembly overview
Follow the aluminium frame assembly from the separate parts to the assembled frame. Watch how to align and tighten the connections before setting up your cloth.
2:28 · Aluminium frame assembly
Watch on YouTube01 / SET UP
You tuft from the back of the rug. The picture you see on the front will be the reverse of the design on your cloth.
FRAME + PRIMARY CLOTH
Clamp your frame securely, grip the cloth evenly and stretch it tight as a drum. Both frame and cloth need to stay firm as you press the gun into the fabric.
Clamp your frame securely so it stays stable as you press the gun firmly into the cloth. Grip the primary tufting cloth evenly around the edges and stretch it tight as a drum, with even tension across the whole working area. The cloth needs to support the pusher foot under firm, sustained pressure while the needle moves in and out.
Loose cloth lets the gun bounce. If it is very loose, the cloth can move with the gun instead of letting it advance cleanly through the weave. In cut pile, the scissors can keep cutting the same section rather than moving into the next part of the cloth, leading to tears.
Transfer a simple design onto the cloth. Mirror any lettering so it reads correctly on the front, and leave room around your design for finishing the edges.
In your kit: 100 × 200 cm primary tufting cloth. Choose a frame in the kit options or build a DIY frame.
AK-V + YARN + THREADER
Thread the yarn through the gun’s yarn guide and needle, then check that it feeds freely from the cones. The lessons below will take you through your first lines.
With the machine switched off, use a threader to thread the yarn through the yarn guide and needle on the tufting gun.
Then check that yarn can feed freely from the cones without pulling against the gun.
Watch threading with acrylic yarn · 1:01 or cotton blend yarn · 2:59. Both beginner lessons take you into tufting and spacing with that yarn. Practise on a spare area before starting your design.
In your kit: purple AK-V and three threaders. Your yarn bundle depends on the option you choose.
01 / CLOTH SETUP
Watch how to stretch the primary cloth tight as a drum over your frame, giving the tufting gun a firm, even surface to work against.
Older tutorial — filmed around 2022. Some equipment and details may be outdated or differ from the current kit.
02 / BEFORE YOU BEGIN
These two short clips show what not to do. See what happens when you move in the wrong direction or do not apply enough pressure. Keep scrolling to the full beginner tutorials to watch the correct technique.
This video shows what not to do: pulling an upright gun downwards. The red slash marks the incorrect technique.
Move towards the open side of the V-shaped pusher foot. Look at the foot before you start: its open side points in the direction you should travel. With the gun held upright, this means tufting upwards. The gun cannot tuft backwards.
To tuft sideways or follow a curve, turn the gun so the open side of the foot faces the direction you want to go. Keep moving towards that opening, with the gun perpendicular to the cloth.
An earlier machine is shown; the same rule applies to the AK-V in your kit.
02 / PRESSURE & POSITION
This video also shows what not to do. The red slash marks what happens when you do not press firmly enough: the gun bounces away from the fabric instead of tufting cleanly through it.
Keep the gun perpendicular to the cloth, with the pusher foot pressed firmly against it. Push into the cloth and maintain that same pressure along the entire line. When practising vertical lines upwards, do not ease off or tilt the gun before you reach the top—a common first-time mistake.
Consistent pressure lets the needle and scissors reach their intended depth. Easing off creates shorter tufts between longer ones, leaving uneven pile. With too little pressure, the yarn can even be cut on the working side of the cloth instead of the front of the rug.
Your frame must be securely clamped and stay stable under firm, sustained pressure. Stretch the cloth evenly, tight as a drum, so it supports the gun instead of moving with it.
An earlier tufting gun is shown. The same pressure and positioning apply to the AK-V in your kit.
02 / TUFT YOUR DESIGN
Watch the correct technique in the full beginner lessons below, from getting started with your AK-V to building up a tufted design. Choose the lesson for your yarn and pause to practise each part on a spare area of cloth before starting your rug.
Learn to thread your AK-V and tuft with EFFY premium matte acrylic rug yarn. Follow the beginner demonstration for needle-hole adjustment, line spacing and checking the results from the rug side.
Jump to threading · 1:01 · needle-hole adjustment · 1:38 · line spacing · 2:59 · unpicking a line · 5:22 · checking the rug side · 7:02 · more tufting · 20:30.
24:16 · Beginner tufting lesson · EFFY acrylic
Watch on YouTube: Introduction to tufting with EFFY acrylic yarn. (opens in a new tab)Follow the beginner lesson using EFFY cotton blend yarn. Learn how to thread the gun, hold it against the cloth and build up your design.
Jump to threading · 2:59 · pressure · 3:42 · your first line · 6:18 · spacing · 7:39 · speed and pace · 11:53 · curves · 20:14.
30:44 · Beginner tufting lesson · EFFY cotton blend
Watch on YouTube: Introduction to tufting with EFFY cotton blend. (opens in a new tab)Extra help with the machine itself: overview · 10:10, cleaning and oiling · 16:55, and threading · 22:37.
Individual tool tutorial · 31:23 · AK-V setup and care
Watch on YouTube: A closer look at your AK-V. (opens in a new tab)02 / SEE TUFTING IN PRACTICE
See the AK-V at work and the soft, fluffy front of a finished rug. Then take a closer look at outlining and lettering from the working side of the cloth.
These clips show the earlier blue AK-V. Your kit includes the purple model.
Watch @artsymadwoman tuft a floral design with the AK-V, then see the finished rug from the front, with its fluffy cut-pile surface and carved detail.
These selected moments show the tufting and the finished result from the same project.
Watch the AK-V follow a character design and build up areas of colour, ending with a view of the stitched back of the rug.
Video: @dekurugs
See lettering transferred onto the cloth, then the AK-V working along the drawn design.
Video: @milky_moon__
03 / SEAL WITH LATEX
While your rug is still stretched on the frame, apply a purpose-made latex rug adhesive to the back. It works into the yarn fibres at the base of the stitches and cures into a flexible bond that holds the fibres in the cloth.
For this sealing stage, we recommend latex rug adhesive—not PVC glue, powdered glue, iron-on adhesives or interfacing. Attaching the secondary backing is a separate step.
BEFORE GLUING
Check both sides, pull out misplaced fibres and tidy your design lines. You can start carving now, while the fibres are still free to adjust.
Check both sides, correct gaps and pull out misplaced fibres that cross your design lines. This is a good time to tidy colour boundaries and do some carving, while you can still remove and adjust fibres before the glue locks them in.
Carolyn often lays a smaller frame flat and supported on a table to carve, keeping the rug stretched on it. With a larger frame, you can leave the carving until after gluing if that is easier. Finish with more shaping and detail work at the end.
KEEP IT ON THE FRAME
Work the latex adhesive into the fibres while the cloth is still stretched on the frame. This helps it reach between the stitches for even coverage and a secure bond. Let it cure fully before cutting the rug free.
Work the latex adhesive into the fibres while the cloth is still stretched on the frame. Keeping it stretched helps the adhesive reach the spaces between the stitches and around the fibres, giving more even coverage and a more secure bond.
Spread it evenly across the back, working it into the fibres at the base of the stitches rather than leaving a layer sitting on top. Let the adhesive cure fully before removing the rug. When you cut it free, leave approximately 3 cm of primary cloth around the tufted edge to fold onto the underside.
Good latex rug adhesive cures into a flexible, rubber-based bond that tolerates moisture and moves with your rug. Paired with suitable washable yarn and backing, it makes a rug that can be wet-cleaned while the fibres stay securely bonded.
WATCH THE GLUING STEP
Watch rug glue being applied across different designs, including liquid latex, thick latex and a standing-frame demonstration.
Our liquid latex and thick latex adhesive are both made in New Zealand and sold through our New Zealand shop. We can ship internationally via DHL or New Zealand Post, but shipping glue to Canada can be expensive. We do not currently stock these glues in Canada and have not yet found a suitable local supplier.
Watch the liquid latex being poured onto the back of the rug and worked into the fibres with a scraper.
Watch the thicker latex being worked into the fibres across the back of the rug, through to full coverage, while the cloth stays stretched on the frame.
See glue poured around the outline and spread across the back of the lips design with a broad scraper.
EFFY liquid latex can go straight into the paint spray gun shown—no thinning or thickening needed. Watch it being applied to the back of the rug while the frame stays upright.
The Ozito sprayer shown is optional equipment and is not included in the kit.
04 / CARVE & SHAPE
Use the included Rosewood carver and Easy Clip guide to even out the surface of your rug. You can then work freehand to define colour boundaries and shape the design.
If you began carving before gluing, return to the surface now for final shaping and detail work. Practise on a spare tufted piece and take a little off at a time. Watch the main demonstrations, or open the extra examples to see the tools used on other rugs.
Watch an EFFY workshop attendee use the Rosewood carver and Easy Clip guide to take the top layer off a blue-striped rug, evening out the surface. The guide helps maintain a consistent shaving depth as the carver moves across the rug.
Both are included in your Ultimate Kit. Switch off and unplug the carver before fitting or removing the guide.
See the Rosewood carver and Easy Clip guide level the pink and orange rug.
Watch Carolyn define the coloured squares and lines of a rainbow checkerboard with the Rosewood carver. Use the corners of the blade to work between colours, bevel the edges and bring the design into focus.
Demonstration by Carolyn / All Things EFFY.
Watch @annabellemakes carve freehand around the moon and pastel shapes on her blue rug, using the Rosewood carver to define the edges between colours.
Watch @farrealmsupply move from surface levelling to freehand carving, followed by the finished Monstera pillow.
An older guide is shown here. Your kit includes the Easy Clip guide demonstrated above.
05 / BACK & BIND
For a floor rug, finish the underside with your included non-slip backing and cotton rug binding. This covers the back of the tufting and gives the edges a neat, durable finish.
SECONDARY BACKING
The non-slip fabric covers the glued underside and gives your floor rug a finished back.
Fold the spare primary cloth onto the back and press it down to form the waterfall edge. With liquid latex, the folds stick without extra glue. Depending on the rug-backing glue you use, you may need additional adhesive to hold the folded edges down.
Cut the secondary backing to the shape of your rug, just inside the yarn border. We recommend a suitable spray adhesive to attach it over the glued underside; some tufters use latex instead.
This thick, non-slip fabric covers the back of your tufting. It is different from the cloth you tufted into, and does not replace the glue that secures your yarn.
Watch the cloth-trimming example ↓
Included: 100 × 200 cm secondary backing.
Add separately: backing adhesive.
COTTON RUG BINDING
Cotton rug binding protects the edges—the most vulnerable part of your rug—and gives them a neat, durable finish.
The edges are the most vulnerable part of your rug. We include cotton rug binding in every kit to protect them and give them a neat, durable finish.
Carolyn typically uses a glue gun to attach the binding over the join between the folded cloth edge and the backing. Suitable fabric glue or latex glue can also be used.
Take your time around corners and curves, keeping the binding smooth, and let the finishing adhesive set as directed.
Included: approximately 10 metres of cotton rug binding, 3 cm or 4 cm wide depending on stock.
Add separately: a glue gun and glue sticks, or suitable fabric or latex glue.
WATCH THE FINISHING STEPS
Follow the finishing stages: trim the spare primary cloth, fold the waterfall edges, attach the secondary backing and finish with cotton binding. Open the extra examples for a closer look at each step.
After the rug glue has cured and the rug is off the frame, trim away the excess primary cloth. Follow the shape of the rug, leaving a border to fold onto the underside.
This close-up shows the trimming step before the cloth is folded and the secondary backing is attached.
Watch the spare primary cloth being trimmed around a blue-striped rug, leaving a border for folding.
Fold the spare primary cloth onto the underside and press it down along the outline of your rug.
With liquid latex, the folded edges stick without extra glue. With other rug-backing glues, you may need additional adhesive to hold the folds down.
A second close-up of the primary cloth being folded and pressed onto the rug’s back.
Use a suitable backing adhesive to attach the secondary fabric over the back of your rug. Apply it as directed, lay the fabric down and smooth it firmly into place.
This workshop clip shows adhesive being applied, then the backing being lowered and pressed flat. Trim the fabric neatly to the rug’s outline, ready for binding.
In this workshop close-up, the scissors follow the orange rug’s outline, trimming away the excess secondary backing. The folded primary cloth is already underneath.
Watch the binding being glued around the edge of the backed pink rug. Work in short sections, keep the binding smooth around curves and let the glue set before handling.
The 4 cm cotton rug binding shown here is a little wider than our 3 cm binding. Your kit may include 3 cm or 4 cm binding, depending on stock.
This second example shows the trickier curves of an irregularly shaped rug. Apply the glue in short sections and follow the outline as you press the binding into place.
THE FINAL TIDY-UP
Once your finishing adhesives have set, give the rug a final tidy before you use it, hang it or give it away.
This close-up shows a handheld rug scraper lifting loose fibres left on the surface after carving. The gathered fibres are then brushed away by hand.
The rug scraper shown is an additional tool and is not included in the Ultimate Kit.
ONE RUG. A WHOLE NEW SKILL.
Your first rug is a chance to learn how the cloth, yarn and tools work together. Return to any stage whenever you need a reminder.
Back to the five stages ↑ · Explore the Ultimate Starter Kit · More rug-making FAQs
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